Eczema is a skin condition that causes itchy, red, dry, and flaky skin. It’s common – affecting almost 1 in 5 children in the UK and up to 1 in 10 adults. The term eczema is often used interchangeably with dermatitis. There are a number of different types of eczema or dermatitis, with the most common ones being:

Oily skin is one of the four primary, traditional skin types and is caused by an overproduction of sebum (oil). It is predominantly genetic but can also be triggered by hormones and diet, or skin that is dehydrated - more on this later.

One of the most recognisable ingredients over the past few years, vitamin C is a true powerhouse in skincare. Although its notoriety lies in its brightening capability, its antioxidant function makes it suitable for treating an array of skincare concerns.

Bigger is always better, right? Wrong. We know you want more bang for your buck, but are high-percentage actives more effective or just an excuse for brands to charge more? Let’s add up the numbers. Is percentage chasing based on marketing or science? I blame attention-seeking single-ingredient serums. Marketers have got wise to our instinct that bigger is better, and the market is now flooded with high-percentage serums out to impress. Building a skincare routine can seem overwhelming, and number comparisons make it so much easier to choose. They’ve sparked a war between marketers and formulators - and the marketers are winning. New products should be inspired by skincare innovation rather than a trendy ingredient with a good PR.  Are high-percentage actives always more effective?  No, not necessarily. Every ingredient has a recommended percentage regarding performance and safety, backed up by evidence formed by the manufacturer.  I see a lot of ‘stealth sensitivity’ in my clinic. The use of too many high-percentage actives can overstimulate the skin and lead to breakouts and/or sensitivity – just not straight away. Your skin never forgets, and eventually, it will go on strike. Many actives are just as effective at lower percentages, so you don’t have to pay more for a higher percentage and risk upsetting your skin barrier. The delivery system and formulation are far more important than the percentage Formulations are far more complex than one key ingredient: you need good quality, bioavailable* ingredients that can penetrate into your skin to work their magic.  Suppose an overenthusiastic marketeer markets a 10% active serum. It will just loiter on the surface without a sophisticated delivery system. Your skin barrier is like a bouncer, and nothing gets in without an invitation.  *bioavailable - The ability of a substance to be absorbed and used by the body.   Your barrier loves these super-effective, low-percentage actives: (Please note: the percentages below are to be used a guide to indicate a comfortable yet effective range.) VITAMIN A: Build up slowly if your skin is new to gold standard anti-ager vitamin A, or risk irritating your skin and peeling like crazy. Retinyl Palmitate A gentle soul – no need to worry about the percentage. Retinyl palmitate is like a starter bra and will help sensitive skin build up a tolerance to retinol, which is more like a plunge bra. Retinol Percentage range: 0.01%- 2% Easy does it. You will still get great results from a low percentage, but it will just take longer. Your skin is in no rush. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) Percentage range: 0.2-0.5% The new kid on the block. This retinoic acid ester doesn’t need to be converted to retinoic acid (Tret), so it promises to be just as active but without irritation.  Retinaldehyde (retinal) Percentage range: 0.05–0.1% The strongest retinoid without a prescription. Unimpressed by retinol? It’s time to upgrade to retinal. Also a great option for skins that can’t handle Tret, no matter how much you buffer. Tretinoin (prescription strength) Pure retinoic acid is much more potent than retinol, so you will need a dermatologist to prescribe this for you.  Prescription range: 0.025-0.1%   L-ASCORBIC ACID (pure vitamin C): A tricky one to formulate. The most important part of Vitamin C is the stability, not the percentage. A high percentage is completely useless if it oxidises and turns brown.  Percentage range: 5%-15%   NIACINAMIDE: The market is saturated with 10% niacinamide serums but you can also see great results at a lower percentage. Percentage range: 2%-4% Barrier repair Collagen production Balances oil production Percentage range: 4%-5% Blemishes  Hyperpigmentation   AHAs: Less is definitely more when it comes to AHAs, with the pH being far more important than the percentage. (Ideally, the pH needs to be between 3 to 4 to exfoliate without aggravating your skin). As a therapist, I cringe at 15% glycolic acid toners and serums – leave your poor skin barrier alone! Percentage range: You only need 5-8% to see a real skin difference.    Your skin barrier wants the final say: Patience is a virtue There is no rush. You can achieve the same results with a lower percentage, it’ll just take longer.    Qualifications - NVQ 2 & 3 Beauty Therapy

The world of skin care can be confusing. Do you need to wear SPF when its cloudy? Should you be popping your spots or leaving them well alone? Is exfoliating daily too much? To confuse things further, social media platforms can be the wild west when it comes to skincare advice because what is posted isn’t always fact checked, resulting in misinformation to be spread. For example, drinking celery juice won’t give you “perfect” skin.  

You've probably heard a lot about acids in skincare. They sound a bit scary, but also excitingly powerful - what exactly do they do, and do you need to use them? Here's the lowdown on the most common acids in skincare. 

We are over halfway through the month of Ramadan, and for many within the Muslim community, this means they have been fasting from dawn to dusk, abstaining from eating and drinking whilst focusing more on reconnecting with their faith and spirituality. 

Eczema is a chronic skin condition that causes the skin to become dry, inflamed, flaky and itchy. The most common form of eczema is atopic eczema, also known as atopic dermatitis. In severe cases, the skin can crack, weep and even bleed. Whilst the exact cause of eczema is unknown, evidence has shown that there is an issue with your skin barrier function.

Along with parabens, fragrances and essential oils, artificial blue light from digital devices has fast become the next “nasty” to fear, according to the sometimes-questionable world of skincare marketing. Particularly following the increase in screen time throughout the pandemic. But you needn’t worry, as we’re here to give you the facts and quash unsubstantiated claims made to sell you a product out of fear.

As a board-certified dermatologist, Dr. Sandra Lee always urges people to resist popping their own pimples because it can often do more harm than good — making spots worse and leading to scarring and potential infection. She is aware however, that most of us will not listen to that. With this in mind, we asked for her expert advice on how to pop a spot properly.

Collagen is a protein found in the dermis layer of your skin. It's very important for the structure of your skin and is responsible for its firmness and bounce. As we age, collagen production slows down. The sun’s UV rays also damage collagen. Collagen loss is one of the main causes of thinning skin, wrinkles and a rougher texture. So, it's no big surprise that one of the most hyped-up supplements in skincare is collagen. 

Widely considered as the gold standard skin ingredient, unless you’re new to skincare, you will have likely heard of retinol. Much-loved by dermatologists and aestheticians alike, it’s best known for its ability to significantly improve the appearance of the skin, especially lines, wrinkles, and sun damage.

If there is one positive that came out of the past few years, it’s the rise of small businesses and professionals moving towards starting their own side hustle. Thinking about launching your own skincare brand? We spoke to Gemma Murari, Founder of Luneia Skin Wellness, about how she created a successful indie skincare business.

When you think about breakouts you automatically picture a teenager with a few spots. But while there is still a stigma attached to the age we experience them, it is becoming more and more apparent that breakouts do not discriminate against age.

What is acne? Acne is one of the most common disorders of the skin, affecting approximately 85% of us at some point in our lives. We are most likely to develop it during adolescence, triggered by the production of sex hormones known as androgens at the onset of puberty.  Acne subsides by the early twenties in many cases, however, it can persist into adulthood (over 25) and late-onset acne can also occur. Current research indicates that the number of adults with acne is on the rise. Although acne is common, the intensity and duration varies widely from one person to another, and no two journeys are alike.  What causes acne? There are four primary factors that interact to cause acne:  Excess sebum production by sebaceous glands. These are the tiny oil-producing glands that sit alongside our hair follicles. Build-up of dead skin cells inside the hair follicle. These cells mix with sebum forming a blockage or “plug” that obstructs the opening of the hair follicle (pore). If this blockage occurs near the surface of the skin, exposure to air causes the mixture to turn black. This is what gives “blackheads” their characteristic appearance. Cutibacterium acnes. This bacteria lives on the skin and thrives in airless, oily conditions like those found in hair follicles. It turns sebum into fatty acids, deactivating enzymes that normally put the brakes on inflammation. Release of inflammatory mediators. Once the brakes are off, cascades of chemicals are produced by skin cells, leading to the type of inflammation that causes acne. What are the risk factors for acne? Genes are likely to be involved in acne predisposition. Lending weight to this theory, there are high rates of concordance amongst identical twins (meaning that if one twin has acne the other is extremely likely to develop it as well). There is also a tendency towards severe acne in people with a positive family history.  Hormones. Our sebaceous glands are under hormonal control. In people who have acne, the glands are particularly sensitive, even to normal blood levels of these hormones. Surges in hormones e.g. during puberty, pregnancy or pre-menstrually can drive production of extra sebum. Medical conditions, such as polycystic ovarian syndrome (PCOS), increase the risk of persistent acne and may be tested for by your doctor if you have other symptoms, such as irregular menstrual cycles, thinning of scalp hair and excess body or facial hair. PCOS has been estimated to affect approximately 8% of females of reproductive age. Population studies correlate acne with a Western diet. Eating lots of sugary or processed foods and drinks may increase breakouts. Dairy can be a trigger for some people too. Unfortunately, there is no simple test to confirm or exclude this, so the best way to work it out is to observe closely over a few weeks (e.g. 6-8 weeks) to see if you can spot a pattern. Does your acne flare up consistently each time you consume dairy during this period? If so, does it get better when you limit dairy for the same amount of time? Other lifestyle factors can also contribute. Stress, certain medications (e.g. oral steroids, progesterone-only contraception, some antidepressant or antiepileptic drugs) and inappropriate skincare product or makeup selection can aggravate acne. What does acne look like? Generally straightforward to recognise, acne can appear in different forms: Whiteheads (closed plugged pores) Blackheads (open plugged pores) Papules (small red bumps) Pustules (small pus-filled spots) Nodules and cysts (large, deep, tender lumps under the skin) Many people who experience acne have a combination of these different types. Acne is most likely to affect the face, however,  the trunk (back or chest) is affected in approximately 60% of cases. Adult female acne often affects the sides of the cheeks, jawline, chin, neck and upper torso. Teenage acne may be more prominent across the forehead, nose and chin, in the so-called T-zone distribution. In reality, there is usually some degree of overlap between these patterns. It is important to understand that acne can leave scars or discolouration on the skin, some of which might remain long after the acne has subsided. Common examples of these changes include: Dark marks (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or “PIH”)  Red marks (post-inflammatory erythema or “PIE”) Hypertrophic or keloid scars (raised, thick or lumpy scars) Atrophic scars e.g. rolling, box car or ice pick scars (pitted or indented scars)  What is “fungal acne”? Pityrosporum folliculitis is a yeast infection of the hair follicle and sebaceous gland. It is distinct from acne although some of the risk factors are similar e.g. high sebum production. Excessive sweating and hot, humid conditions can increase the risk too. It is most common in adolescent and young adult males, and typically affects the upper back and chest, although the forehead/ hairline, neck and chin can be affected too.  Pityrosporum folliculitis causes small, red pimples which may be itchy. These are very uniform in appearance, unlike acne where a mixture of blackheads and other types of pimple often appear together.  It is treated with antifungal shampoos, creams or tablets. Recurrence is common, even after successful treatment. How is acne classified? There are numerous grading systems used to define acne severity, but broadly speaking Dermatologists classify acne as mild, moderate or severe based on the number and type of spots, and the amount of skin involved.  Factors which indicate more severe acne include: Large number of spots Presence of nodules and cysts Presence of scarring Presence of psychological distress Acne and mental health Acne is a very visible condition, it often persists for months or years and it can leave permanent scars. Anxiety, depression and low self-esteem are common in people who have had acne, and it has been repeatedly demonstrated that the level of distress may not correlate directly with acne severity i.e. people with objectively mild acne may experience significant distress. Effective treatment of acne can relieve feelings of shame or embarrassment, and improve body image and self-confidence. How should I manage my acne? “The basics” First and foremost, keep your skincare routine simple and stick to it as much as possible.  One common acne myth is that poor hygiene causes acne. The role of facial cleansing in acne is to remove makeup, dirt and excess oil. Using harsh cleansers and scrubbing furiously at the skin can disrupt the skin barrier, increase inflammation and cause the skin to sting or burn. Cleansing twice-daily with a gentle soap-free cleanser tends to work best. Then, opt for a non-comedogenic moisturiser, sunscreen and makeup. Non-comedogenic makeup improves confidence and does not worsen the severity of acne nor delay response to treatment. “Actives” Magazines and social media abound with skincare products that claim to improve or reduce breakouts. Although largely untested in controlled clinical trials, many of these products are considered somewhat effective, particularly for people with mild acne i.e. blackheads, and occasional papules or pustules.  Adding products to your routine that contain benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, azelaic acid, alpha hydroxy acids, sulphur or niacinamide may help reduce oiliness, promote exfoliation and calm redness associated with acne. You don’t need to try and incorporate ALL of these ingredients, however. Doing so is likely to cause significant irritation. Another nifty option in the over-the-counter toolbox, especially for those who are prone to picking spots, is the hydrocolloid plaster.  If you are already following a sound skincare routine, have tried a few over-the-counter products without success or have any of the features that indicate more severe acne, prescription therapy is likely to be required and should not be delayed in people who are starting to scar. Prescriptions Prescription creams (e.g. retinoids), the combined oral contraceptive pill, a trial of antibiotics or more specialised oral treatment options can be extremely effective when used in the right combination for you.  The best doctors to see for acne treatment are your GP in the first instance, and a Consultant Dermatologist if initial treatment is not helping. Light and laser treatments  These treatments show some promise in treating acne and may form part of a treatment plan. Data confirming their effectiveness is limited compared to prescription treatment and more studies are needed to know what will work best for most people.  Scarring The first step in managing acne scarring is to get the spots under control as early as possible. Once the acne is controlled, discolouration and texture does tend to improve to a degree over the following months. Broad-spectrum SPF 30 -50 sunscreen is an essential tool for helping fade dark or red marks from acne. There are various tools and techniques that can be used to improve the appearance of scars. Topical retinoids, microneedling, radiofrequency needling, laser, chemical peels, steroid injections and surgical scar revision are all possible options. These treatments carry their own risk of adverse effects so need to be carefully tailored to the individual by an experienced practitioner on a case by case basis. Managing Expectations  People having treatment for acne should be given reasonable expectations of the time taken for visible improvement, which is usually 2-3 months for most options. It is important to understand that acne may worsen or irritation may be more significant initially, with gradual improvement. Be patient, be open-minded and don’t lose heart. There is always something that can be done.   @drjustinekluk drjustinekluk.com    

The products included in The Breakout Box were hand-picked by our Founder and Skincare Expert, Caroline Hirons. Read on to find out why she chose breakouts as a theme and why the products were selected.  Why did you choose breakouts as a theme? Irrespective of your age or skin tone, if you have oily or combination skin and visible breakouts, this is the Box for you.  The Breakout Box came to fruition as we know that quite a few older people bought into our Teen Box. Breakouts are something many of us experience at some stage in our lives and so I wanted to create a targeted routine designed to decongest, soothe and balance blemish-prone skin.  Why did you choose these products? Whether you’re experiencing large, painful, hormonal spots or a cluster of breakouts from a heavy weekend, I’ve chosen products that can help to tackle breakouts, no matter what the cause.   Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Oil-Reducing Cleanser: This gently foaming cleanser is ideal if you suffer from excess oil and blackheads. It removes dirt, oil and makeup without stripping the skin, thanks to the addition of glycerin and aloe vera.   Murad Daily Clarifying Peel: Working over time to decongest pores and resurface the skin, this multi-action peel is a triple-threat when it comes to breakouts. Addressing both the cause of spots and appearance of congested skin, it uses a powerful combination of glycolic acid, salicylic acid and a retinoid.  If you are new to acids, please start by using twice a week. Increase if you feel it is necessary.   REN Clearcalm Replenishing Gel Cream: When your skin feels oily, angry and congested, the last thing you want is a thick, heavy moisturiser. This soothing, lightweight gel cream is designed to boost moisture in breakout-prone skin, leaving it feeling calm and comfortable.    Votary Blemish Rescue Oil: This oil has been designed as a sophisticated alternative to traditional spot treatments which can be quite drying. It’s brilliant if you suffer from regular breakouts and want an invisible treatment that can be re-applied throughout the day without stripping the skin. What’s your advice for dealing with breakouts? First and foremost, work out what might be triggering your breakouts. Is it your hormones? Stress? Your skincare routine? Each of these factors can lead to breakouts, so it’s important to identify the potential cause when treating them.  On that note, treat the spots, take care of the skin. Don’t treat your entire face as if it’s covered in breakouts (unless it is!). Spot treatments such as the Votary Blemish Rescue Oil included in the Box, are brilliant for targeting localised areas.  I’ve also created a complete guide on types of spots and how to deal with them which you can read here.  Shop The Breakout Box.

One of your beloved products runs out; what do you do? Bin it? Recycle it? Keep it in an empties drawer for months (guilty)? The world of packaging and recycling products can be just as confusing as picking an actual product for your face in the first place.

Did you know that combination skin is the most common skin type?  As the name suggests, combination skin means you experience a mixture of skin types. Typically, this is seen as balanced skin (‘balanced’ being a far more accurate alternative to the widely used term ‘normal skin’ - because what is that exactly?) with oily areas - usually the t-zone - or balanced skin with dry patches.

We often think that skin concerns such as breakouts, are only caused by the products or lack of products we apply to our skin, however, that isn’t always the case. 

From at-home masks endorsed by celebrity users to clinic professional treatments from esteemed facialists like Teresa Tarmey and Andy Millwall, LED Therapy has truly hit the skincare world by storm. It was a huge trend in 2021 and it’s certainly not going anywhere fast, as its popularity continues to grow.  Now I can hear you asking, “what is LED?” Let’s get into the details, starting with the basics. 

Ready to start a solid skincare routine or simply want to make sure you’ve got your current one nailed? From which order to apply your products to the essentials everyone should include in their regimen, we’ve broken it down into an easy guide.

No matter what you identify as, if you have a face, you need a solid skincare routine. Whether that’s a basic cleanse and moisturise or a 6-step regimen. But a question that comes up time and time again is whether men need to use different skincare to women?

Originally used in medicine for its wound-healing abilities, Polyglutamic Acid (PGA) is a humectant (attracts and retains water in the skin) and is touted for its ability to hold more moisture than popular fellow hydrator, Hyaluronic Acid.

The key to flawless makeup application isn’t really about the time taken to perfect your makeup skills, it’s all about skin prep. When you do the work to ensure that the skin is smooth and hydrated, you will end up with a seamless makeup look that is flawless and stands the test of time. Cleanse It is so important to ensure that you are cleansing your skin thoroughly to remove all the dirt, oil and impurities from the surface of your skin. There are so many formulas of cleansers to choose from but the most important factor is opting for a cleanser that will help to protect the skin barrier without stripping it of its essential oils. Choose the right cleanser for your skin type to keep the skin happy.  For a quick, first cleanse: Garnier Micellar Rose Water Cleanse and Glow For sensitive, dry skin: Kate Somerville Goat Milk Cleanser For normal to dry skin: Emma Hardie Moringa Cleansing Balm For oily/combination skin: Caudalie Vinopure Purifying Gel Cleanser   Exfoliate Exfoliation is essential when it comes to prepping the skin for makeup as it will help to remove any build-up of dead skin cells and reveal smooth, healthier-looking skin. One other benefit of exfoliation is that it will allow your serums and moisturisers to work more effectively, so you’ll be well on your way to glowing skin. Aim to exfoliate at least one to two times a week.  For gentle exfoliation: Exuviance SkinRise Morning Glow Pads  For an at-home facial peel: Dr Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel (Found in The Acid Box) For an overnight treatment: Kate Somerville Liquid ExfoliKate Triple Acid Resurfacing Treatment   Hydrate The next step is to follow with a hydrating serum and it is best to always apply your hydrating serum to damp skin as it’s more permeable. Serums are an important factor in any skincare routine because they are full of active ingredients that penetrate deep down into your skin — everyone can benefit from a hydrating serum. Look for ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and glycerin, as these are humectants that work to boost hydration and leave your skin looking plump and radiant. Vichy's Minéral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Hydration Booster Medik8 Hydr8 B5 Intense Serum Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum                                                                                                            Prime Once you have applied your serum you can then follow with a moisturiser. Many people believe that they need a separate primer on top of their moisturiser, but this step can be classed as your priming stage because you are getting the skin ready for makeup and creating a barrier between your skin and the makeup. This stage will help your foundation and concealer apply more seamlessly, helping with the longevity of your makeup.  For normal to dry skin: Sunday Riley Ice Ceramide Moisturising Cream  For dry skin: Skinceuticals Triple Lipid Restore Cream For normal to combination skin: Bobbi Brown Vitamin Enriched Face Base For oily skin: Sunday Riley Tidal Brightening Enzyme Water Cream   Don’t forget your lips Your lips need a little TLC too, so hydrate them the same way you would prep the skin on your face. It is important not to go for a solely occlusive based lip balm but one that has a mixture of humectants and occlusives like the Paula’s Choice Hyaluronic acid + Peptide Lip Booster which contains hyaluronic acid and squalane to hydrate and protect the lips at the same time. Make sure to apply your lip balm whilst applying the rest of your skincare, as this will give it time to work and get your lips ready for any lip products. Paula’s Choice Hyaluronic Acid + Peptide Lip Booster Summer Fridays Lip Butter Balm (Found in The Sensitive Face Box) Omorovicza Perfecting Lip Balm

Carefully selected by Skin Rocks Founder and Skincare Expert Caroline Hirons, all the products within our Boxes work in synergy to target a specific concern, age, skin type or ingredient.

Co-founder of Summer Fridays and social media influencer, Marianna Hewitt is a self-confessed beauty fanatic. Prior to her popular brand launch, Marianna paved her way to over 1 million loyal followers by sharing her beauty knowledge, recommendations and natural passion for the industry. Now, the successful co-founder is a podcast host and regularly interviews fellow brand founders, influencers, and personalities. Looking to start your own beauty brand? Read on as we interview her on all things business and beauty.

The products included in The Sensitive Face Box were hand-picked by our founder, Caroline Hirons. Read on to find out why she chose sensitive skin as a theme and how she selected the products.

If you find joy in putting mashed avocado on your face, fill your boots, but when it comes to whipping up your own vitamin c serum made from a concoction of items in your fruit bowl, we firmly advise not to. This is a fast-track, do not pass go, do not collect £200 pass to a compromised skin barrier and sensitised skin.

Oh, the skin barrier. You will have likely heard of this being referred to A LOT within the skincare industry and while you might not know what it is, we’d bet good money that you’ve probably felt the backlash when it's become compromised (aka unhappy). 

Have sensitive or sensitised skin? Here are our do’s (and don’ts!) to help keep it calm and balanced

You might assume that sensitive skin simply means skin that is easily irritated, but there are other signs to be aware of that may indicate your skin is sensitive or sensitised.

Contrary to common belief, sensitive skin isn’t a skin type. Caused by both genetic and external factors, sensitive skin straddles between a skin type and a condition. For some, it can be temporary, while for others, it’s chronic ― typically in those with a genetic predisposition or inflammatory skin condition.

At the start of the year, we are usually bombarded with the kind of messaging that tells us we need to strive to be better and do better. While resolutions are the all too familiar vehicle for achieving this, the truth is that it’s consistent behaviour change that can make all the difference if, indeed, you are looking to make some changes. And the great news is [spoiler alert] by reframing how you view making these changes, you can have a lot of fun doing it…

As another year rolls in, so do the trends forecasted to be everywhere for the new year. But which are worth paying attention to and which should you take with a pinch of salt? Whilst this is subjective, we’re giving our thoughts. Read on to find out.

Wearing a mask creates a humid environment, which provides a host of organisms (such as bacteria/yeast) the perfect conditions to grow. The combination of micro- organism growth and friction can cause/exacerbate acne, eczema, rosacea and contact dermatitis.

As a consumer who has dealt with severe acne in the past, I found that my hyperpigmentation became a reminder of how I felt at the height of painful acne flare-ups. I began a personal journey of research to uncover effective ways to treat hyperpigmentation and hopefully educate my growing audience at the same time. As soon as I mention the word ‘hyperpigmentation’ on social media, I am always met with an influx of questions and experiences from my community. While hyperpigmentation is not a new topic, there always seems to be a lot of confusion around it. Let's take a dive into some background knowledge on the subject. Hyperpigmentation describes those pesky dark marks or areas we see on the skin which are usually the result of an inflammatory response. Excess pigmentation is caused by the overproduction of melanin by the melanocytes. This will occur after damage to the skin. The overstimulation of the melanocytes results in extra deposits of pigmentation appearing on the damaged area. The colour of the hyperpigmentation can give you an insight into the depth of the hyperpigmentation: grey hues indicate dermal melanosis, while brown indicates epidermal melanosis. Knowing how deep the lesion is will help guide you when choosing the correct treatment. During my research, I discovered how much information and misinformation about hyperpigmentation flooded skincare spaces. A lot of the information that was credible required a very deep understanding of scientific language and biological processes – which would be a lot of faffing for someone who just wanted to treat their skin. Something I noticed in my research is that the treatments I found useful for hyperpigmentation were not always the hyped-up treatments. One of the most popular products for treating hyperpigmentation is a Vitamin C serum. You cannot search hyperpigmentation without a Vitamin C serum popping up. Controversially, I do not find them useful for hyperpigmentation. I think this is because I saw how frustrated my community was becoming when trying to find the perfect Vitamin C serum and feeling like their hyperpigmentation would never reduce. As mentioned earlier, hyperpigmentation is caused by the overproduction of melanin and, therefore, people with deeper skin tones are more likely to get hyperpigmentation and require a more intensive treatment other than Vitamin C.  The key to truly effective treatment is to use products that help with inflammation and inhibit tyrosinase. However, while vitamin C does have tyrosinase-inhibitor properties, it is not the gold-standard treatment. There are many efficacious tyrosinase inhibitors besides Vitamin C and that is a hill I am willing to die on! Alternatively to Vitamin C, I am a huge fan of azelaic acid and kojic acid which are both amazing tyrosinase inhibitors. Azelaic acid at 20% is wonderful for treating both acne and pigmentation. Kojic acid is a little harder to get your hands on, but I am such a huge fan! Kojic acid can usually be found in consumer products at 1%, but is available at a higher percentage in a professional treatment clinic. There is no way I could talk about hyperpigmentation without dispelling two of the most common myths. Myth 1: ‘People with deeper skin tones should not use AHAs as they can cause burning or bleaching’. This is super FALSE! Your skin tone does not dictate which ingredient you should use; your skin type (oily, dry, sensitive, normal) has more of an impact. I find this myth very damaging to a lot of people’s skincare journeys. Deeper skin tones can absolutely use AHAs, and I often recommend them. One tip I advise people to remember is that formulation of a product matters and you should not discount an ingredient based on one bad product experience (unless you are allergic to it).  Myth 2: ‘Hydroquinone is dangerous and illegal in the UK’ Hydroquinone remains the gold-standard tyrosinase inhibitor and it is NOT illegal in the UK, but it is available by prescription only. The main danger with using hydroquinone is obtaining it from an unregulated source or improper use. The Pigmentation Box is a great example of treating hyperpigmentation in a multifaceted way and it is great for both pros and beginners to kick their pigmentation into line!     Desai S. R. (2014). Hyperpigmentation therapy: a review. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 7(8), 13–17. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/jdv.12048  Del Rosso J. Q. (2017). Azelaic Acid Topical Formulations: Differentiation of 15% Gel and 15% Foam. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 10(3), 37–40. Punchard, N. A., Whelan, C. J., & Adcock, I. (2004). The Journal of Inflammation. Journal of inflammation (London, England), 1(1), 1. https://doi.org/10.1186/1476-9255-1-1

There are some brilliant treatments out there that can work wonders for your skin. However, before you let anyone get to work on your face, it’s important to arm yourself with the knowledge to help you choose the treatment best suited to your skin goals. We’re here to help you with that.

As if the cold weather wasn’t enough to contend with, when the temperatures drop and winter descends, these changes can wreak havoc on our skin. Lower levels of humidity, blustering winds and arctic weather (ok, perhaps a tad dramatic!), can all suck the hydration out of our skin. Combine this with drying central heating and you have a recipe for potential irritation, dehydration, dryness, and an unhappy skin barrier. Inflammatory skin conditions such as rosacea and acne can also be aggravated during this time of year. But it’s not all doom and gloom, as there are some simple things you can do to help support your skin during the colder months.

Hormones, school stress, and nights out, can all wreak havoc on skin. The impacts may not show on younger skin but at Skin Rocks we say good habits start young.

Ah Autumn, season of mists and mellow fruitfulness, according to Keats, anyway. But in the beauty world, it’s the season of a gazillion emails arriving in your inbox — and roughly the same number of social media posts — all touting this Christmas’s ‘must have’ advent calendars, that promise to shower you (or someone you love) with 25 products for — ostensibly — a knock down price. And that’s after you’ve spent the summer collecting Gifts With Purchase (GWPs) from the department stores, and having samples and miniatures pressed into your hands by counter staff desperate to offset almost a year of not being able to sell anything.

Like me, you may have been there, hoovering the last grains of glitter from dorm floors as the sun sets on freshers. Looking into the mirror at some ungodly hour and seeing three-day old hour, slightly crusty foundation from topping up your makeup rather than removing it and dark circles desparately hiding behind concealer. If you happen to be running on minimum sleep, consuming more sodium than a professional eater and gaining upper body strength from the pure weight of looming essay deadlines, we understand skincare is a very low priority, and why should it be? Whether you enjoy wearing makeup or like to step out nude our skin is our biggest protector and largest organ - we think this qualifies it a bit of respect and TLC. Think about a skincare regimen as an early preventative measure. Do you know how to get rid of sun damage? By not getting it in the first place. 1. Hydration - sorry to say but alcohol isn't a hydrator. Ideally, we need two litres of water a day. This will seriously improve the way your skin looks and those hangover headaches might actually be a little less brutal, two birds, one stone. 2. Expense - a basic but effective skincare routine can be bought on a budget, doing a little research goes a long way and many companies offer student discounts. 3. Arsenal - the military kind! A cleanser, toner, good moisturiser and SPF is a great place to start, leaving you with a clean base for makeup or a flawless, fresh-faced look. 4. Take off your makeup - please, please, please, whatever you do, take your makeup off before bed. If nothing else, think of your pores! 5. SPF - the UK may be known for it's colder climate and expected 170 days of rain but UVA rays are still at work, speeding up skin ageing. Think of it as armour. Make it a habit now, and your older self (and skin) will thank you. Just like your plans, your skin changes. Quite literally shedding thousands of cells daily, creating a daily routine doesn't have to be time consuming and really can be fitted into the most hectic of scheduled. Your degree sets up your future, think of an early skincare regimen as the same thing. No matter your age, the Skin Rocks Teen Box is a great place to start if you are looking for an updated skincare routine. The Teen Box is suitable for any skin type, but has been created to be gentle enough and hydrating for young skin that may already be irritated from breakouts or acne.

Last year, when the world woke up to the reality of a global pandemic, people predictably rushed to buy essentials like water and cleaning supplies. The sleeper hit? Toilet paper. In the US, restrictions were quickly put in place on how many rolls you could purchase. Toilet paper shortages and panic were widespread. Social psychologist Sander van der Linden noted in an article for CNBC that our collective toilet paper hoarding was thanks to a phenomenon called “fear contagion.” This fear contagion was powerful in motivating buying behavior of toilet paper in not one country, but globally. The adage in advertising is usually “sex sells” but the reality is, fear is more profitable. Sex sells, fear spreads.  The fear formula works something like this: create an anxiety (the villain), provide the solution (be the hero). This is what makes using fear one of the more predatory marketing tactics; you’re exacerbating anxiety to motivate a purchase. Toilet paper companies didn’t incite fear, society did, but the impact on sales was clear. The anxieties marketers create within these ‘clean’ movements are varied but all offer a similar promise, their brand is safe to use unlike all those other dirty brands. Whether the marketing play is around the vague idea of toxins or the idea that you can’t trust governments, institutions or experts, the end message is always the same; you don’t have to be scared if you buy from us. As with any fear-based message, regardless of its truth, the contagion spreads. You may be surprised to learn the “clean living” movement didn’t originate with a wellness newsletter or a west coast detox retreat, it started with the white temperance movement in the 1890s. In a paper documenting the resurgence of clean living in the 1990s, Dr. Ruth C. Engs, Professor Emeritus from Indiana University’s Department of Applied Health Science, notes that America’s obsession with “clean” and “pure” living started in the late 19th century. Dr. Engs writes that in addition to a “health and fitness campaign that advocated a diet rich in whole grain products, exercise, self-help books, filtered water, and warnings about the danger of heavy caffeine” there was also a heavy emphasis on temperance and controlling reproductive rights. Per Engs goes on to say; “Reformers claimed eliminating the evils of alcohol, tobacco, and pornography [including birth control] would return traditional family values and lead to a prosperous Golden Era free from crime.” While the next generation of clean living that Engs later documented coalesced around single-issue advocacy groups, it’s interesting that at the same time that “clean living” was coming back in Vogue, the Environmental Working Group (the EWG) was founded. No organisation has codified and mobilised clean eating and beauty quite like the EWG. Originally founded in 1993, two years after Dr. Engs paper, as a “think tank” by Ken Cook and Richard Wiles, the group came to notoriety by publishing “dirty” food lists in the mid 90s and circulating now debunked anti-vaccine research. If dirty lists and fear around life-saving vaccines sounds familiar, that’s because the language from the EWG on food and health formed the modern clean beauty movement and it’s messaging is consistently rooted in fear.    Speaking with Erin, widely known as Food Science Babe, a chemical engineer and a food scientist, she explains EWG lists like the “Dirty Dozen” are deeply misleading due to their flawed science. These lists rank fruits and vegetables from “cleanest” to “dirtiest” based on pesticide residue. But, there’s a catch. Food Science Babe explains (along with any expert in the space), that the EWG “manipulates the USDA PDP data, which shows us year after year how incredibly safe our food is from a pesticide residue perspective.” For example “in 2019 over 99% of the samples tested had residues well below the tolerances established by the Environmental Protection Agency,” Erin explains. Erin goes on to note that these lists simply count the number of pesticide residues on each food. To put this into context, a fruit could be completely coated in a pesticide but be listed as “cleaner” than a fruit that has trace amounts of four pesticides. The list only counts the number of pesticides, not the dose or potential harm of the specific pesticide.    The same year the EWG trademarked their “Dirty Dozen” list, the EWG got into skincare. In 2004 Skin Deep® launched. Much like how the EWG approaches food, the database lists potential toxins in skincare ranking their “potential harm” with flawed interpretations. Mirroring the “Dirty Dozen,” these lists do not take into consideration dose, mode of exposure, and selectively choose which studies to list. For example, essential oils are routinely given “safe” seals of approval despite being well documented to be potentially dangerous based on dose. Conversely, certain synthetic ingredients are given much higher ratings despite having little data on harm. Erin from Food Science Babe points out the organisation appeals to nature fallacies and fear around science. Playing into these fears has led to the creation of multi-billion dollar industries.  Ren skincare launched with “no” lists alongside ingredient blacklists in 2000, Tata Harper in 2007 became the “Queen of Green” popularising the vague yet effective term “non toxic skincare.” Drunk Elephant launched to enormous success with the storyline of the suspicious 6 ingredients in skincare and finally, retailers started to crop up further spreading the dogma of clean. Retailers like The Detox Market, Follain and Credo all started opening doors with the promise to sell you products that aren’t dirty. Credo boasts the largest ban list of all retailers with a whopping 2700 ingredients. On Credo’s “why clean” page they simply state “what you put on your skin matters.” Directly under this banner is a $58 mascara you can “swap” your current (presumably dirty) mascara for. The result of clean’s “fear contagion” is clear; the industry is projected to be worth 22 billion dollars by 2024. While the EWG likes to frame itself as solely a non-profit, it is important to note that while the EWG is a non-profit, in 2002 the EWG founded their sister lobbying organization, the EWG Action Fund. This allows for the EWG to lobby for corporate interests without violating their non-profit status. In 2015, their tax returns showed the EWG spent $700,000 in lobbying and $555,000 of this was expenditures to influence a legislative body.    Anke Ginzburg, PharmChem PhD, a pharmacist and Cosmetic Scientist who has specialised in plant extractions explained that “trends have always driven formulations” but seeing the rise of clean beauty, she knew it “was the start of something terrible.” Ginzburg explains that we now have a situation where we have a beauty consumer who’s increasingly scared, confused and misguided about what is safe in skincare. Instead of being informed on what is best for their skin, the environment and their wallets, consumers are increasingly being alienated from science. Put plainly, making products more effective, safe and sustainable is a noble cause; the clean beauty movement is getting us further away from that goal, all while profiting on the confusion.    Take for example the widely cited claim that there are 1400 banned ingredients in Europe and only 11 banned in the US. Brands have built their entire raison d’etre off the idea they don’t use any of these banned EU ingredients. Despite media outlets repeating the lie, the reality is in the United States you don’t need to ban crude oil, chloroform and prescriptions from cosmetics. They aren’t present in formulas because it’s illegal to include them. Last I checked, you can’t go to Sephora and pick up spironolactone, one of the banned EU ingredients from cosmetics. So what would be helpful? Making Good Manufacturing Practices (currently a guidance in the United States) compulsory, requiring companies to assemble detailed safety data testing on ingredients, extensive stability testing prior to launching products and finally more detailed toxicology data. These are requirements in Europe that brands can be creative on avoiding in the United States. If these weren’t reason enough to question the credibility of “clean,” the movement has another glaring issue; it’s built by and profited on largely by white people. Natural remedies and holistic healing are largely from ingredients and practices that originate from cultures white society either rejected or persecuted for practicing. To then profit off of these ingredients without recognising the history and origins of ingredients isn’t a very clean practice, especially as Black, brown and indigenous communities have very real reasons to be suspicious of medical institutions. Black maternal mortality rates are astronomically higher than white maternal deaths, lack of representation is rampant, and generally when looking at American systems and institutions, the track record is abysmal in its treatment of non-white, poor and vulnerable communities. To play into these understandable fears demonising products like Vaseline while trying to sell more expensive products that aren’t always held to higher standards is, quite simply, fucked up.  The reality is the beauty industry is far from perfect. Clean beauty wouldn’t have taken the industry by storm if it was. Looking at the US market, there is a long list of things to fix. Before using fear to sell you a moisturiser, the fear of ageing or imperfection was more common and still happens. Focusing on outrageous marketing claims versus science has led to disillusionment on what products can do. Due to the FDA being poor at enforcing regulations, brands can skirt the rules or create products that would fail the most basic of stability testing. That being said, panicking and focusing all attention on ingredients that are demonstrably safe is detrimental to a better beauty industry. You can’t fight the right problems with the wrong solutions. It’s a distraction from areas where the industry needs to change. This includes regulating marketing claims, understanding environmental toxicity of ingredients, ensuring the stability of products, having enforceable manufacturing practices and ensuring every ingredient in formulas is not only traceable but has extensive safety data. Improving on issues like safety, measuring environmental harm and understanding toxicology data are things every industry should look at, including beauty. Instead, we are left with a growing movement that uses fear instead of reason, which, while helping bottom lines glow up, does nothing to benefit you or your skin.

Prescription* strength vitamin A is retinoic acid (also known as Tretinoin/Retin-A). This is the star of the show in terms of skin ‘care’. It has a long list of conditions/signs of ageing/skin problems/disorders that it is proven capable of either fixing entirely or massively helping. Originally (and still) used to treat acne, it quickly became obvious that there was such more to this wonder ingredient. Retinoic acid is bioavailable to the skin. The difference between retinoic acid (Tretinoin/Retin-A) and retinol/retinaldehyde/retinol esters is that they need to be converted into retinoic acid by your skin at a cellular level in order to have the same effect. Each one takes one further stage to convert, as per the table below, and each conversion weakens the strength/effect of the product, hence why a 1% retinol is still not as effective as a 0.025% retinoic acid but may prove more irritating: retinoic acid/tretinoin/all-trans-retinoic acid (prescription only in the UK)0.1%0.05%0.025%                                ^ retinaldehyde and hydroxypinacolone retinoate (granactive) (retinaldehyde – one conversion – acts quickly, just not as quickly as the above)(hydroxypinacolone retinoate is a retinoic acid ester – so it’s directly related to the Boss, but it’s not a direct descendant, more a cousin. Sometimes used in higher %s because it’s an ester and gentle)(Given the choice, I would still pick retinaldehyde over HPR.)   ^^ retinol(two conversions – still works, takes a little longer to get you there)1%0.5%0.3%   ^^^ Retinol esters including :retinol propionateretinyl palmitate(three conversions minimum – these all differ but there is evidence showing that palmitate is the weaker of the family, more of which in individual reviews)There are other derivatives such as retinyl acetate and retinyl linoleate, but they are not as prevalent.   Added to the above are adapalene – trade name Differin, and tazorac, trade name Tazarotene. Differin, now OTC in the USA, is mainly used in the case of acne, but has its own proven benefits on signs of ageing on the skin and so is an easy pick if you are state-side and looking for something affordable, easy to access and try, that won’t break the bank or your skin. It’s also safe for pregnancy and not a problem in the sun. I recommend Differin to anyone that isn’t contraindicated. It’s a no brainer. Tazarotene is mainly prescribed for psoriasis and acne and is prescription only for a reason. It’s irritating and isn’t really used for cosmetic benefits, so if you are on that, keep talking to your doctor, I’m leaving it alone for the sake of ‘cosmetic’ reviews. That’s it. The process is akin to coffee:  double espresso ^espresso ^^cappuccino ^^^latte   *It is possible to buy tretinoin over the counter in mainland Europe with no prescription needed. When I am talking about prescriptions I am referring to the UK.  Do not forget your SPF. Avoid if pregnant, just for your own peace of mind. Retinoids are fine with breastfeeding** **See video here with Dr Emma Wedgeworth.

Our founder, Caroline Hirons, recommends cleansing, sometimes acid tones (although less so with a stronger formula), mist, leave a gap for the skin to dry, then go in with a retinoid. If using a prescription strength retinoid, Caroline Hirons recommends cleansing, applying the retinoid, leave a gap, moisturise. If in doubt, apply your retinoid to damp, cleansed skin, leave on for 20/30 minutes and then follow with a soothing moisturiser.

There is no magical ‘cure’ for acne. There are different types, yes, but no one-dose-fits-all cure. So do read the below – but bear in mind that acne is different for everyone. You may have one type – or 3 types.   You need to know your skin, your body, your state of mind, your ‘system’ inside out to truly see results.

Hyperpigmentation is a broad umbrella term that covers any excessively pigmented (brown / black) marks of the skin. It can include sun damage (sometimes referred to as sun spots or liver spots), post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, drug-induced hyperpigmentation and melasma (although the last one is a complex medical condition so I don’t advise trying to address this one on your own). In order to treat hyperpigmentation successfully, whether at home or in-clinic, there are a few things we need to understand first due to a couple of common misconceptions that I see a lot in-clinic, preventing people from getting results. Firstly, hyperpigmentation is always the result of something else i.e. it’s a secondary concern and only exists as a result of something else. Whether it’s prolonged sun damage, trauma or inflammation, medications or a hormonal imbalance. Jumping in and treating hyperpigmentation without first understanding the primary cause is like trying to empty the bathtub with both taps still running. You need to fix the problem that caused the hyperpigmentation in the first place, even if it's the pigment that bothers you the most. Secondly, hyperpigmentation is complex. It’s not just a simple staining of the skin. Unfortunately, you can’t just exfoliate the skin to get rid of the excess pigment granules. A key thing to understand about melanin (pigment) is that it’s one of our skin's defence mechanisms - like putting an umbrella up on a sunny day. A major factor that is often overlooked when treating hyperpigmentation is the melanocyte is inflamed (the cell that produces pigment). Therefore, a big part of treating hyperpigmentation must include a way of reducing inflammation and calming the melanocyte down. Another issue often overlooked when treating hyperpigmentation is the importance of skin barrier integrity. As a corneotherapist I put skin barrier health at the forefront of everything I do, but it can be overlooked in treating hyperpigmentation. The skin barrier becomes compromised cell-2-cell communication is broken down and inflammation increases, hence my emphasis on its importance. Yes, our cells really do speak to each other! This communication is vital for even pigment production and distribution within the epidermis. Every treatment programme, whether it be at-home with products or in-clinic with treatment, should incorporate some form of barrier repair process in the beginning to ensure optimal long-term results. Once the primary factors that caused the pigmentation are found and the skin barrier is being supported, it makes treating hyperpigmentation that much more effective and the skin will respond better to treatment. Treatments could include peels, microneedling, IPL (Intense Pulse Light Therapy) and laser treatments. Chemical Peels are a great option for treating hyperpigmentation, as they increase cell turnover and help remove excess pigment granules. I prefer combination peels rather than single-agent peels, as these include a combination of ingredients to not only peel the skin but also regulate pigment production such as Vitamin A and Vitamin C for example in combination with AHA’s (Alpha hydroxy acid) / BHA (Beta hydroxy acid). I personally like to use peels in combination with other treatment, such as LED light therapy or even microcurrent to help reduce inflammation and increase cellular energy, supporting the overall result. Microneedling is a great option for treating hyperpigmentation. The controlled trauma of the needles not only helps to break down pigment, increase cell turnover and renewal but also helps repair the communication between cells. Using a 0.5mm needle depth is ideal for most hyperpigmentation issues as it works down to the depth of skin where melanocyte lives. Microneedling can also be combined with growth factors and mesotherapy quality ingredients to address pigment. IPL and laser are light based treatment methods that induce heat into skin to break down pigment clusters. Although IPL and laser are different technologies, the principle is the same but energy deliverance is different. Melanin absorbs light energy, this energy is then transferred into heat. This heat causes controlled trauma to the skin and breaks down pigment granules to increase cell renewal. It can be highly effective in treating pigment and one of the fastest ways to see results, however, caution is needed on darker skin types. Heat trauma can instigate more pigment to be produced making IPL an unsuitable option for treating pigment in darker skin tones, but some laser technology is. A practitioner experienced in treating skin of colour is also essential, but it is possible to treat all skin types with laser. In terms of how long it takes and how many treatments are required, it really depends on many factors including what the primary cause was, how long the pigment has been there, the age of the client and what supporting home care is being used. Generally, I advise my clients to expect at least 3-6 months before seeing decent results, though in some cases this can be longer.

The NIOD Re:Pigment, featured in The Pigmentation Box, is a superstar serum for people with pigmentation who want help in reducing the look of pigmentation on their skin.

Don’t start poking about at your face if you don’t know what you’re dealing with. You’ll end up scarred, bleeding and all manner of annoyed. Here is a guide on the different types of spots, and how best to deal with them.

Zits. Pustules. Papules. Wheals. Comedones. Milia. There are lots of things that happen to the skin – especially on the face – on a regular basis. This is purely for: SPOTS. This is not about acne, blackheads or postules. We’re talking about your average spot that comes up occasionally – you know it’s coming – you can feel it, it started with a bump, felt sore, then got a little red, hurt a little more, then you see a faint hint of something that could be a head. A little white may show underneath. And then, typically, if you are the average person, you: ●Stab it (leading to scarring) ●Poke it (doing absolutely nothing) ●Squeeze it (if too early, will bruise, then potentially scar) ●Load it with tea tree oil (no need – it’s probably not bacterial) ●Load it with spot treatment (see above) ●Or GOD FORBID – put toothpaste on it (please no)