You've probably heard a lot about acids in skincare. They sound a bit scary, but also excitingly powerful - what exactly do they do, and do you need to use them? Here's the lowdown on the most common acids in skincare. 

Hearing the word ‘acid’ in conjunction with a skincare routine may sound counter-intuitive, but acids can be excellent for your skin and should be a part of a solid routine. With countless acid products and even more misinformation coming from websites, celebrities and, in some cases, brands themselves, it can be a minefield to get your head around. It doesn’t need to be. The trick to choosing the best acid for you is to focus on the skin concern you want to address. Yes, it really is that easy.  Before we deep dive, it's helpful to understand the different types of acids that are out there:  Beta Hydroxy Acid – BHA (There is only one BHA, which is salicylic acid): Best for breakouts or acne Alpha Hydroxy Acids – AHA: Best for signs of ageing Polyhydroxy Acid – PHA: Best for those with sensitive skin, who want the results without the potential for irritation. Salicylic acid is best for those with blemishes and breakouts. It can usually be found at 0.2% in OTC products. It will be used in higher concentrations for a professional face peel to treat acne, acne scars, melasma, sun damage and age spots, but a hard core treatment like this should only ever be done under the advice and supervision of a trained medical professional. Glycolic acid (AHA) is best for those who are concerned about signs of ageing. It is the smallest AHA and is effective at getting into the skin to reduce fine lines. It also helps prevent acne, fade dark spots and even skin tone and texture. Glycolic acid does increase sun sensitivity, so it is vital to use an SPF while using glycolic acid to prevent any sun damage. Lactic acid (AHA) is your go-to if your concerns are dull, dehydrated or dry skin. It has a larger molecule than glycolic, so is gentler on the skin but still does a great job exfoliating the skin in a more sensitive fashion. Mandelic acid (AHA) is similar to glycolic acid and can be used to prevent acne and even pigmentation. It’s also a great option for oilier skin. Due to its larger molecular structure, it doesn’t penetrate skin as deeply as glycolic acid, making it less irritating. Don’t be fooled though; mandelic acid can penetrate the greasiest skin, and with regular use can reduce oiliness without drying out skin. Gluconolactone Acid (PHA) is your go-to if you have sensitive skin. Gluconolactone is mostly an antioxidant which attacks free radicals, protecting the skin from sun damage and strengthening barrier function. Over time, gluconolactone can reduce redness and it also helps maintain elasticity in the skin. Lactobionic Acid (PHA) is best suited to skin that is dehydrated. It may help prevent and reverse signs of ageingsuch as lines, pigmentation, large pores and uneven skin texture.

How should I choose which SPF is the best for me? Choosing the right SPF is really important and a number of factors should be taken into account – your skin type, the sun conditions and the amount of time you plan to be out. Skin that is not used to the sun is less able to protect itself so a higher SPF should be chosen. Under the influence of UV rays, the skin begins to thicken and starts producing melanin. This process can take 10-20 days, so use extra protection while your skin is adjusting to the sun. Be aware that there’s a difference between SPF 50 and SPF 50+. An SPF 50 is tested to be exactly that but a 50+ must achieve at least an SPF 60 to get that all important "+" sign. What is the difference between UVA and UVB? UVA (ageing, DNA and cell changing) penetrates below the skin’s surface and requires a high-level UVA filter to absorb the UV rays away from the skin. UVB (burning) causes the ‘sunburn’ we may see after overexposure. UVB is measured by SPF (Sun Protection Factor). The SPF rating system was developed back in 1962 by Franz Greiter to measure the capacity of a sunscreen to block UVB radiation. The current SPF rating system applies to UVB rays only. Ultrasun goes further and protects against the full light spectrum. Infrared-A: Infrared-A rays penetrate the epidermis and dermis and can lead to the formation of free radicals. Antioxidants are the key to infrared-A and DNA defence. How much sunscreen do I need to apply? Apply liberally to all exposed, or potentially exposed, parts of the body. The official guidelines given by Colipa (Association of European Cosmetic Industry) are 2mg/cm2. As a rule of thumb, use a teaspoon of sunscreen for each arm, leg, front, back and face (including neck, and ears). For a 1 week holiday we recommend 100ml for a child and 150ml for an adult. I’m working from home and don’t go outside during the day - do I still need to wear SPF? Simply put – yes because of UVA rays. UVA rays are a year round skin damager, penetrating cloud and glass and impacting cumulatively beneath the skin’s surface. Think UV “A” for ageing. According to the World Health Organisation, up to 90% of the visible changes commonly attributed to ageing are caused by sun exposure. Sun protection should be very much part of a daily skincare routine and anyone serious about their skincare will know that UVA & UVB protection is a daily core component. No serum or moisturisers can reverse UV damage. All Ultrasun Face products multi-task, delivering a lightweight under make up formula that often rivals and replaces BB and CC creams, but also giving enhanced anti-ageing, anti-pollution, skin radiance and smoothing benefits, alongside the crucial high SPF and UVA filter as standard. My moisturiser/foundation/BB cream has SPF included, do I need to apply SPF as a separate step? A number of moisturisers and make up brands contain an SPF within them. However, these tend not to be water-resistant and, by the very nature of their intended use, are applied a lot more thinly and therefore are often not providing the same level of protection as advertised. Also they tend to miss the all-important UVA protection. Whether your make up contains an SPF or not, it is important that you choose a high-quality sun protection product that contains photo-stable UV filters (this means that the filter is not broken down by the energy of UV rays). Ideally, individuals should choose sun protection products for their face that contain SPF30 or above (anything less than this only offers low protection) and choose ones with broad spectrum protection to prevent damage from both UVA and UVB rays. I have dark skin, I don’t need to wear SPF. It’s a myth that darker skin tones do not need sunscreen. Black skin may be ahead of the game with a higher natural SPF, but that is not enough protection. A broad-spectrum sunscreen of SPF30 and above is essential. Darker skin can still suffer burns from being unprotected in the sun, which is an indicator that damage including cell mutation is happening further down in the dermal layers. In addition, UV rays are chief instigators when it comes to uneven skin tone and hyper-pigmentation as it sends the melanin producing cells – the melanocytes – into a production overdrive which causes patchy, uneven blemished skin tone. A high UVA % filter preferably of over 90% and SPF (UVB) of at least 30 is equally crucial for darker skin tones, both for the prevention of skin cancer and as part of preventing skin damage as part of a regular skin care routine. UVA’s link to the cause and worsening of hyper-pigmentation is well established and ensuring that protection is a daily skincare step is the best prevention tool. Ultrasun has sun protection products for all skin types that deliver high, broad spectrum protection leaving none of the chalky residue that those with darker skin tones are understandably keen to avoid. My skin is sensitive, I don’t want to break out from a greasy product like SPF Ultrasun is made with sensitive skin in mind our formulas are fragrance free, hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic and contain vitamin E, Squalane and GSP-T (Grape Seed Extract) for additional moisture. Is SPF really safe? I’ve seen several brands recall their SPF products recently, how do I know who to trust? It’s important to know your ingredients and what to look out for, we have broken down the key things that should be factored in when considering what sunscreen to purchase:  Formula: Ingredients are lost very quickly through evaporation, trans epidermal water loss or even by adding other products on top. We need key ingredients that skin must be able to access and absorb to get results. That’s all about the formulation. At Ultrasun we use Lamellar structure technology. Lamellar gel structures have a high affinity to the natural structure of ceramides found in the skin which allows them to bind and deliver deep below the skin’s surface, mimicking the skin’s own compatibility structure to avoid irritation. Lamellar technology is composed of fine, alternating layers that form an even bond with the skin. This ‘suit of armour’ not only protects ingredients but it supports the penetration of active ingredients into the skin. This means that high-quality UVA and UVB filters alongside skin boosting ingredients like Ectoin and hexoresorcinol remain within the skin’s layers throughout the day delivering them in a way that is sympathetic to the skin’s own system.   The exact percentage of UVA filter: The SPF number only measures UVB rays which burn the surface of the skin, but UVA rays have a long term impact below the skin’s surface increasing the risk of skin cancer and causing skin damage and ageing. There are many systems to measure UVA filter levels and the simplest is the %. All Ultrasun products clearly show the % of UVA filter on the packaging so it’s easy to navigate and have a very high UVA filter of over 85%, against an EU standard of 33%. Shelf Life: An Asda survey revealed that 57% of Brits are wearing out of date sunscreen. Check your product for shelf life, the average is 6-12 months. All Ultrasun sun protections have a shelf life of 2 years AFTER opening so can be used for more than one season and are great value for money making it possible to buy different products at different SPFs and formulas to “cocktail” protection knowing it’s good for next season. How long a sun cream lasts is above all about efficacy and ability to protect to the level indicated so it’s incredibly important you don’t wear out of date sunscreen.   About Ultrasun Created in Switzerland, with over 3 decades of professional UV protection expertise, Ultrasun is your solution for long-lasting, broad-spectrum protection from the entire light spectrum. This includes damaging UVA, UVB, Blue Light and Infrared-A rays, which are the biggest cause of premature skin ageing. Incredibly lightweight and water-resistant, Ultrasun has innovative facial formulations that act as a perfect primer for make-up, as well as specific products for babies and sensitive skins or clear gels all of which ensure skin is protected all day.   Ultrasun is the only company worldwide to use lamellar technology in the formulation of sun protection products. This innovative technology ensures product is locked within the top layer of your skin and gives an overlap of coverage that guarantees complete and even protection from the sun’s harmful rays. Lamellar protection allows the filters to protect for longer and move effectively even after water exposure. Ultrasun is the first sun protection brand worldwide to be awarded the BASF EcoSun Pass, the ultimate test of environmental impact for sun protection products, making them both reef friendly and ocean safe as well as not interrupting our own endocrine systems.   Accredited with the Swiss Allergy Seal of Quality, and Dermatologist recommended, Ultrasun products are hypoallergenic with no emulsifiers or perfume, making them suitable for children and those with sensitive skin. Ultrasun’s fast-absorbing lamellar formulas suit all skin types and skin tones, with product choices from clear gels to added skincare actives to target areas of concern such as pigmentation. With a superior shelf life of two years after opening you can cocktail your products to suit the needs of your lifestyle and your skin.

If you’re a woman of a certain age, then your introduction to acids in skincare was probably that infamous episode of Sex And The City when Samantha Jones tries a “freshening chemical peel” and ends up with a raw, red face that genuinely frightens children and causes Carrie to compare the results to “beef carpaccio”. The episode originally aired in 2002 and really reflected the fact that, back then, most people who encountered acids from a skincare perspective did so in clinics or doctor’s offices. And, by acids, in this feature, we’re really talking predominantly about AHAs — although BHA- and PHA-based products do get a brief look-in too. “At first, acids were definitely not a retail ingredient,” says dermatologist Dr Dennis Gross, who launched his skincare line at almost exactly the same time that Samantha was showcasing the results of her peel. “They were used by derms and, occasionally, plastic surgeons, as in-office procedures. We used TCA (trichloroacetic acid) and phenol (carbolic acid), but they were very harsh and quite radical in terms of downtime (ie You looked bright red and had to hide yourself away for days if not weeks). There were also the risks of scarring and, while the results were good, they were not something I thought was great.” That said, while most consumers would only ever encounter acids in a professional setting, since the 1970s, there was one cult product that, in certain circles, had become legendary and could well lay claim to being the first ever acid skincare product for home use. That product was Biologique Recherche’s P50. P50 was created by French biologist, Yvan Allouche, for his wife, Josette. The original formulation used phenol and was intended to gently exfoliate the skin. Dr Philippe Allouche, Yvan and Josette’s son, who is one of the co-owners of the brand, told Refinery 29 that his parents began sharing the product with their friends in France and abroad, before launching it to the press in the late 1970s. While the original is still available in some parts of the world, it’s now known as P50 1970, and you won’t find it in the EU or Canada where phenol is not allowed to be used in cosmetic formulations. Instead, you will find four other versions, including P50, the most powerful and the closest to the 1970 version but without the phenol; P50W, for sensitive skins; P50V for older skins and P50 PIGM 400 for pigmented skins. All of them contain lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, salicylic acid and gluconolactone: a combination of AHA, BHA and PHA exfoliants. Part of the mystique of the legend of P50 was that you couldn’t just pick it up off the shelf, you had to see a professional — a facialist or aesthetician — and buy it from them. (You can now buy it online but it’s not as easy as click and go, you have to sign up and take a skin analysis, etc). So, while there’s no doubt that P50 was the brand that first put acids in the hands of consumers for home use, it doesn’t really count as the first commercially available acid skincare.That honour goes to Avon who, in 1992, became the first beauty company to bring alpha hydroxy acid technology to the mass market, with the launch of the ANEW skincare line and the Perfecting Complex for Face, which contained glycolic acid. “Having uncovered the benefits of AHAs, we immediately partnered with the scientists who discovered them to bring them to the masses with our award-winning brand: ANEW”, says Anthony Gonzalez, current head of skincare R&D at Avon. “This was a pivotal moment in skincare history”.  ANEW remains Avon’s biggest skincare brand and, when it comes to glycolic, they’re still innovating. They claim their new Revival Serum Lipstick is an industry-first, combining colour payoff with efficacious skincare ingredients, including AHAs, to help treat not just the symptom but the cause of dry lips.Other big brands followed Avon’s lead and, by the mid 1990s, AHA-based products from Estée Lauder, Prescriptives, Elizabeth Arden, Decléor, Murad and many more were popping up in our bathrooms. But, for Dr Dennis Gross, the issue was that these were all one-step treatments that echoed the approach that was still being taken with peels in doctors’ offices. “I set out to create an AHA peel with no downtime. For me the ‘Aha!’ moment [he doesn’t say ‘pun intended’ but I totally think it was] was when I realised that you have to neutralise the acids to stop them working, and that second step is the key to making it effective, but gentle”. He started out by working with a blend of acids that he used in a professional treatment before thinking about formulating it for home use. “I had a client take home two canisters of pads. There was acid in one and neutraliser in the other, and they were designed to be used two minutes apart. The first step exfoliates, removing the top layer of dead skin and bringing the younger epidermal cells to the surface, but that’s the least of it. Like all tissues in the body, those fresher, younger cells are more avid to take up nutrients, so that’s when the second step does more than just neutralise the acid. It also includes anti-ageing ingredients, antioxidants, vitamins, soothing ingredients”. And so the two-step peel pads were born. They’ve recruited an army of followers, including Naomi Campbell and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley — and apparently a pack now sells somewhere in the world once every three seconds.While pads continue to be a staple in many skincare routines, a smart bit of marketing saw acids in skincare reborn as the modern form of toners. The original toners of the cleanse, tone, moisturise routine have become somewhat anachronistic, as dermatologist Dr Zoe Draelos explained in a piece for Dermatology Times. “Toners were originally developed to remove soap scum from the face when lye-based soaps, combined with hard water, left a sticky residue post-cleansing. The alcohol-based toner removed the soap scum, eliminating irritation and contributing to cleanser mildness”. These days, as our cleansers are decidedly more sophisticated than lye-based soaps, they’re not necessary, but that stage in the routine is the perfect place to slip in an acid. Add to that the fact that, over the last ten years, dermatologists have increasingly warned against the use of physical exfoliants — anyone remember that apricot scrub that genuinely scoured the skin? — and encouraged the use of chemical exfoliants, aka acids, that do a similar job, just in a more uniform and gentle way. It’s easy to see how acid toners became “a thing”. One of the brands at the vanguard was Pixi Beauty, whose Glow Tonic sold out in 2012 after Caroline Hirons raved about it on her blog. Other brands have since developed their own, with Medik8, Ren and The Ordinary among many brands giving you the option to swipe a glycolic-soaked cotton pad across your skin post-cleanse. So what’s the future for acids in skincare? Perhaps understandably given that the concept is his baby, Dr Gross feels that consumers haven’t yet got the message that two steps are better than one and that more education is needed here. But, more broadly, he is also wary of the trend for plastering percentages on labels, which seems to result in a race for brands to outdo each other with ever higher percentages of acids. “It’s gamesmanship — fundamentally there are laws that govern what concentrations are included in over-the-counter products,” he says. “And, when it comes to acids, more isn’t necessarily better. More can cause damage”.He also points out that without knowing the details of a formulation or its mechanism of action, the numbers are meaningless. “You might claim a very high concentration of acid on your label, but the formulation might mean that that’s not the effective concentration”.However, he also believes that consumers are: “smarter than ever, they’re doing their research, looking to learn, and not being spoon-fed commercialism and marketing jargon”. And, as he puts it, “truth prevails, honesty prevails and results prevail” — which is why there will probably always be room in your regime for a well-formulated, effective acid product.

Being a “Skin Nerd” morphed into my DNA after hopping into a facialist’s chair for the first time ever when I was thirteen. This was a defining moment when my passion for skin was realised – undeniably, my teenage self wouldn’t have dreamed it’d take me to where I am now! Since then, I have been lucky enough to be surrounded by a network of wonderful “hoomans” (aka humans) that truly believed in me and my brands from ideation. To this day, I value every piece of advice I've been given – a gift I would love to pay forward. A key piece of advice I would share is to write your mission statement: know your goals and be target-driven, so you have something to aim for. Bear in mind that targets don’t always need to be monetary. And do be sure to celebrate your targets when you reach them. I think many tend to forget that part as we lose ourselves in the next “to do” – I can be guilty of that myself. I would encourage you to write a business plan and think about the aspects that might not be part of your typical train of thought (perhaps education, finance, ecommerce). It’ll force you to think of the months and years ahead and form behaviours that’ll steer you. It’s inevitable that, once you start, you’ll become consumed by ‘the doing’, so having a plan to follow is essential. Otherwise, daily activities can take over and you’ll work hard but, potentially, not as smart. They say you can’t pour from an empty glass – a sentiment that really rings true to me. I used to suffer from perfectionism and martyrdom, whereby I felt like I had to work all hours of the day (and night!) to be a success. Naturally, this was an unsustainable way of working and a life-changing realisation to make. Thankfully, the lesson of instilling balance came at no great expense to my business but perhaps more on my personal life, which is a problem that I continue to address. From this, I learnt that working on self is such an underrated part of owning a brand, because if I can’t properly lead myself, I can’t lead others. For me, it was easy delegating the tasks I least enjoyed, but the real challenge came from handing over responsibilities that I adore, such as managing the education of the brands. I recommend you to be clear and stand firm on your brand’s values so that you can pass the DNA of all you do to your team. Naturally, it’s still important to create a bandwidth and space for them to be creative within the parameters of the brand’s identity. A tip that I’ve learnt is to talk 20% in a meeting and listen for 80% – if you know me, you’d know this is torture. Finally, I would also say to be true to ‘you’. It’s easier said than done, but if you are confident in your own skin, skills and capabilities – own it. Know that perfection doesn’t always exist and enjoy yourself! Never make life-changing decisions on a bad day and complete the jobs that you don’t enjoy first to free up the rest of your time and let your creativity and productivity shine.

Beauty trends are ever evolving, especially within skincare. New technology breakthroughs, ingredient discoveries and delivery systems are constantly advancing. So, when a product has been around for a long time, it generally means it is something unique and special that can stand the test of time. I invented the Alpha Beta Daily Peels over 20 years ago and it is still our number one product. First, some basic info: the Alpha Beta Daily Peels are a two-step at-home chemical peel that lifts away dead skin along with excess oil & impurities, while improving fine line and wrinkles, uneven tone and texture. Step one is formulated with a blend of alpha and beta hydroxy acids while step two neutralizes the acids and delivers powerful anti-aging ingredients.  The Alpha Beta Daily Peel was revolutionary in that it was the first, true at-home facial peel for all skin types, it was designed for daily use and it never caused downtime. I still remember driving down Fifth Avenue in a cab, I had been practicing dermatology for about 5 years in New York City. I just had this idea – it hit me like a bolt of lightning – I could create a professional peel that blended acids at lower concentrations to give a beautiful exfoliation and glow but not irritate the skin. In the late 90s, people were doing these really strong, single-acid peels – there would be tons of downtime. You couldn’t leave the house for a week – and worse of all, you didn’t see any results. Most of the time, it actually damaged the skin. I never felt right about this. Your skin is your largest organ. Why would you harm it to make it better? You wouldn’t damage your lungs and expect them to work better. I invented the Professional Alpha Beta Peel as a superior alternative. It was groundbreaking – the first professional peel that had a significant acid concentration comprised of a cocktail of acids at lower concentrations instead of a single-acid formula. Other dermatologists thought the idea was crazy and wouldn’t work, but I was confident in my philosophy. I added the peel to my treatment menu and word of mouth spread. The practice was fully booked with patients wanting to get the new Alpha Beta Peel. Even my wife, Carrie Gross, couldn’t get an appointment. One day she asked me to bring the peel home and that was our lightbulb moment: we should make an at-home version so everyone, no matter where they are, can get this treatment. I formulated a new product that people could use at-home – a daily treatment you could use in-between monthly peel appointments. And again, word of mouth spread. I invented the first true at home facial peel for all skin types that is used every day and never produces a downtime. My mantra is always keep the skin balanced. The revolution was in the at-home peel’s two-step formulation, mimicking how professional peels have been done by dermatologists for decades. Having two steps and the acid formulation were the key game changers – that is what makes the product so effective, but still gentle. The at-home Alpha Beta Daily Peels use a blend of multiple acids, each at lower concentrations, that add up to a significant total acid concentration. You use step one, which is the acids, and then wait two minutes, and then use step two which is the neutralizer. Step two shuts off the acids’ activity. The peels deliver an instant glow plus long-term benefits – people were immediately in love with the results. To put it simply, the Alpha Beta Daily Peels are entirely unique. They are the only two-step at-home chemical peel on the market. The unique blend of acids in step one plus the neutralizer and anti-ingredient formulation in step two has never been replicated. We are excited to see how the peel’s fanbase grows for the next 20 years and beyond.