Biologique Recherche Lotion P50

Biologique Recherche Lotion P50

What is it?

A liquid balancing exfoliator. Designed to strengthen the epidermis, exfoliate skin, regulate excessive sebum secretion, hydrate the skin, maintain the skin’s pH, and prevent and treat ingrown hairs.

Who is it for?

All skin types - there are three options available in the EU and six available in the US due to the addition of the three originals with added phenol.
P50V is for older skins lacking tone.
P50W is for sensitive skins.

What’s in it?

Water (Aqua), Gluconolactone, Lactic Acid, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Citric Acid, Ethoxydiglycol, Magnesium Chloride, Malic Acid, Vinegar (Acetum), Phytic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Cochlearia Armoracia (Horseradish) Root Extract, Arctium Lappa Root (Burdock Root) Extract, Rumex Acetosa Leaf Extract, Myrtus Communis Extract, Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract, Allium Cepa (Onion) Bulb Extract, Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme) Flower/Leaf Oil, Sulfur, Sorbitol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate

Possibly acne/allergy/troubling for some ingredients?

Acids, sulfur

Natural? Organic? Man made? Vegan?

A mix of man made and plant - in the best way. :)

Tested on animals/sold in China?


What's not in it?

Glycolic acid

How do you use it?

Dampen a cotton pad, swipe over the face left to right, top to bottom, all the way down the neck. Flip the cotton pad over and go back up the way you came from!

What’s good about it?

Oh where to start? This was my first ever experience of an exfoliating acid, in Paris, 14 years ago. It was used at the beginning of a facial at Biologique Recherché and was immediately effective. It still sets the bar for me, exfoliating acid-wise. The now infamous '1970 Formula' is only available in the US, as the EU has banned phenol since I first started using it. How rude of them.

In fairness, this formula works better than the 1970 formula, it has less of a 'burn' and doesn't cause the skin to turn as red. Obviously, if you are a sensitive skinned user, that is preferable anyway..

This formula has gluconolactone, a poly-hydroxy acid, which is more gentle than glycolic, that also acts as an anti-inflammatory along with a higher concentration of lactic acid - and malic and phytic acids, both AHA's used to promote cell turnover and help with hyper pigmentation.

The acids in this tackle skin problems from every angle - resurfacing, zapping blemishes, essentially 'stripping back' the skin so that what you use after it is more able to penetrate. I try and use P50 in the evenings when I'm following it with retinols/vitamin A serums or pigmentation products. That's why I generally use the others during the daytimes. Not a solid rule, more when I remember...

What’s not so good about it?

Some people don't like the smell (vinegar), but in a formula such as this, if you don't want alcohol, you need a preservative - and that's the job of the vinegar. Personally, I don't even notice it these days, such is the length of time that I've been using it, but forewarned etc..

Where to use in your routine?

After cleansing, before serums.

Similar products?
All the usual suspects, in varying degrees of strength.
First Aid Beauty Pads
Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Pads
Clinique Mild Clarifying Lotion (only the mild one)
Colbert Intensify Facial Pads

Biologique Recherche P50 is available in the UK from EF Medispa here: is around £50.00 for the 150ml size. It also comes in a bigger size. The problem is, you can't buy it online. That's the decision of Biologique Recherché, not EF Medispa, so don't blame them if you contact them! :) You can find worldwide stockists here:

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