- I was looking only at the women's mags, and I was looking for Black women, not Latino, Asian, Indian, Pakistani etc.. Black women.
- If I was unsure I checked how the woman identified herself. Zendaya, for example, has a white Scottish mother and a Black father, and identifies as a Black woman.
- Where the woman can be widely recognised by her first name only, I used that, as a nod to her stature, not as a shortcut. We all know full well who 'Naomi' is.
- If however, it was a group cover and the models were not known to me, I have counted how many models were on the cover and listed the fraction of Black models presented. I mean no disrespect to the models.
- I didn't include Kanye when he was basically an accessory (albeit a very happy one I'm sure) for his wife, nor The Weeknd when he was in a white model sandwich. I did, however, count Billy Porter for Allure, because HE was the (brilliant) cover star, alone. So although I was looking for Black women, it's not a perfect science, but Billy is the only man.
- I counted US and UK magazines, mainly because that's what I read. And I didn't count Oprah's mag, because she made the point at the launch of the magazine to use herself on every cover, and thus far has only deviated from that a handful of times.



