- I was looking only at the women's mags, and I was looking for Black women, not Latino, Asian, Indian, Pakistani etc.. Black women.
- If I was unsure I checked how the woman identified herself. Zendaya, for example, has a white Scottish mother and a Black father, and identifies as a Black woman.
- Where the woman can be widely recognised by her first name only, I used that, as a nod to her stature, not as a shortcut. We all know full well who 'Naomi' is.
- If however, it was a group cover and the models were not known to me, I have counted how many models were on the cover and listed the fraction of Black models presented. I mean no disrespect to the models.
- I didn't include Kanye when he was basically an accessory (albeit a very happy one I'm sure) for his wife, nor The Weeknd when he was in a white model sandwich. I did, however, count Billy Porter for Allure, because HE was the (brilliant) cover star, alone. So although I was looking for Black women, it's not a perfect science, but Billy is the only man.
- I counted US and UK magazines, mainly because that's what I read. And I didn't count Oprah's mag, because she made the point at the launch of the magazine to use herself on every cover, and thus far has only deviated from that a handful of times.
REVELATIONS OF A MAG ADDICT - THE COVER STORY
If you've followed me for a long time you may know that I am a fully-fledged magazine addict. Ask Nadine Baggott. :) I currently subscribe to approx 20 mags, around 15 are women's 'lifestyle' and the rest are music. So when I was laid up last week, I took the opportunity and caught up on about six months of mags. It was during this process that I had the idea to 'check a couple of covers' to see if they were inclusive. It was eye-opening. The beauty industry has quite rightly, been taken to task the last few weeks regarding inclusivity across staffing, board members, Instagram grid pictures, and of course, having enough darker shades for Black people. But the mag world is definitely not doing everything it can.. For clarification of how I came to these numbers: