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If you’re on social media, skincare forums or keep abreast of skincare conversations, you’ll recognise the unique kind of FOMO that comes with the word tretinoin. Widely regarded as the gold standard of topical treatment for anti-ageing and acne in particular, ‘tret’ has indeed earned its reputation. However, with so much information and opinion, from dermatologists, TikTok, and multiple online communities, the use of tret has become confused with a goal everyone should aspire to, and there is always someone ready to tell you that if you’re serious about retinoid results you need to ‘graduate’ to tret. Because it’s prescription-strength. Widely clinically studied. Been around for decades. So, it must be the holy grail, right? Wrong.
So, Why Is Everyone Obsessed?
Tret is undoubtedly an incredible retinoid. It’s one of the most extensively studied topical retinoids available, with a long track record in treating acne and ageing. It can improve texture, fine lines, congestion and uneven pigmentation, and for many people, the results can be transformative. But the best retinoid is not necessarily the strongest one you can tolerate, it’s the one that gives you the results you're looking for without making your skin so unpredictable or unhappy that you stop using it or start to see other issues.
When our social media feeds are flooded with a constant stream of tret enthusiasts, it’s easy to forget that it is a drug, not a cosmetic skincare product. It’s on prescription for a reason, and although it is effective, that doesn't mean it's the right ingredient for every person, every skin type or every concern. Sometimes a different retinoid, or a different product altogether, is a better choice.
When to Think Twice About Tret
Tret can sometimes jeopardise rather than improve results. Potency can come with its own set of problems, particularly for more sensitive skin or skin that’s prone to rosacea or eczema. Dryness, peeling, redness, burning and stinging are commonly reported side effects, especially when tret is first introduced. While most people eventually adapt well with careful usage, in some cases, their skin condition gets worse. These side effects can make it difficult to maintain consistency, which ultimately is more important than strength. And for those with darker skin tones, repeated irritation can trigger post-inflammatory pigmentation, adding another potential downside to a potentially aggressive active.
There’s also the question of skin goals and individual tolerance. Someone with persistent acne may benefit enormously from tretinoin, while someone primarily interested in maintaining healthy-looking skin may get what they need from a gentler retinoid that they can more comfortably use long-term.
The ‘Stronger is Better’ Skincare Myth
People are obsessed with potency, with many unfortunately conflating the highest strength with some kind of skincare achievement that they have 'pushed through' to reach. This is completely at odds with what we know to be true about skin. Skincare marketing has trained us to think in terms of escalation: higher percentage. Stronger active. Prescription is better than cosmetic. More aggressive treatment equals better results. Skin, however, just doesn’t work in this way. Rather than thinking of retinoids as a ladder of ‘strengths’ that you should continually climb, they should be viewed as different ways to achieve your desired outcome. How you get there is less important than ensuring you give your skin what it needs and what it can comfortably tolerate.
Different retinoids have different properties, evidence bases, tolerability profiles and best-use cases. Your skin barrier health is the best indicator of great skin, and if your skin is already dry, inflamed or compromised, adding a powerful retinoid can create a cycle of irritation. For example, tret can cause dryness which can make the skin more sensitive, so this can then start a vicious circle of making it harder to tolerate and maintain the consistency you need to see the results you want. This is the point where many people cease using it, as progress stalls and barrier repair has to take priority over using actives.
Making Retinoids Make Sense
Moving up to a prescription retinoid such as tretinoin only makes sense when there is a specific reason to do so, for example tackling persistent acne, or when you genuinely need a more intensive approach to ageing concerns and are prepared to manage the increased risk of irritation. But moving up shouldn't mean simply progressing because you have been using a retinoid for a specific amount of time. If your current retinoid is working, your skin is comfortable and your goals are being met, there may be no logical reason to change.
Conversely, if you're tolerating a milder retinoid well but aren't seeing enough improvement for the concern you're trying to address, that's when increasing strength or moving to a prescription option may be worth considering.
Don’t Rush
Sometimes the best thing you can do before escalating your retinoid is step back and repair your barrier, not try and increase potency by using something manifestly not designed for all skins. Forcing yourself through barrier damage because the internet says it is ‘the holy grail’ is not a good strategy, as tret isn't a quick-fix ingredient. Acne can take several months to respond, while improvements in fine lines, texture and photoageing are generally gradual and accumulate over many months of consistent use.
Generally speaking, you should wait at least 4 weeks for your skin to acclimatise to any product and we’d recommend using a retinoid for at least 12 weeks before moving onto to the next strength, and only then if you have not experienced any issues.
Should I move up, or should I stay put?
There is no need to move up in retinoid strength simply because you can. Move up when your current retinoid is well tolerated but isn't adequately addressing your particular concern. If you’re seeing good results and your skin is comfortable, staying with the gentler option is a perfectly good strategy. There is no single retinoid ‘ladder’; some ingredients become progressively more direct as they get closer to retinoic acid, while others, such as HPR, work in a different way. It’s also important to note that efficacy doesn't necessarily correlate with irritation risk, you can absolutely have outstanding results without irritation.
While all retinoids tackle fine lines, uneven texture and pigmentation in various ways, below is an overview of some of the main retinoid types and when it might be best to stay/move.
Tretinoin — This is the most potent because it is already active retinoic acid (the active form of vitamin A) so the skin doesn't need to convert it first. That makes it stronger and more ‘direct’ than retinol or retinal, however that extra potency can also mean more irritation.
- Best for: persistent acne and people specifically seeking a prescription-strength approach to skin ageing.
- Stay put if: it's working and tolerable.
- Move up/change approach if: your dermatologist recommends a change in concentration or frequency. If there is no specific goal here, this can simply increase irritation without proportionally improving results.
Adapalene — A prescription-strength retinoid (although available over the counter in some countries) designed particularly for acne. Unlike retinol and retinal, it is already a retinoid drug and doesn't need to be converted to retinoic acid.
- Best for: acne, clogged pores and preventing new breakouts.
- Stay put if: acne is controlled and your skin tolerates it well.
- Move up/change approach if: acne remains persistent or severe despite consistent use. If this affects you, a dermatologist may advise the use of tretinoin or other treatments.
Adapinoid® — This is a highly effective third generation retinoid that converts to adapalene. Used in Skin Rocks’ Retinoid 3 (in combination with multiple retinoid actives) Adapinoid® is unique because it delivers potent efficacy with excellent stability and skin tolerance.
Retinal (retinaldehyde) — Stronger/faster than retinol because it requires only one conversion step to become retinoic acid. The key ingredient in Skin Rocks’ Retinoid 2.
- Best for: people who want more noticeable results than they are getting from retinol without necessarily moving to a prescription retinoid.
- Stay put if: it's giving you the results you want without irritation.
- Move up if: your goals aren't being met despite consistent use and good tolerance.
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) — A newer cosmetic retinoid aimed at delivering retinoid benefits while keeping irritation relatively low. Unlike retinol, HPR is designed to interact more directly with retinoid receptors, so it does not rely on the same two-step conversion process.
- Best for: beginners, and people who want the benefits of a retinoid but are particularly concerned about irritation or don't tolerate traditional retinoids well.
- Stay put if: you're getting the results you want and your skin is comfortable. There's no need to switch to retinal simply for the sake of using something stronger.
- Move up if: you're tolerating HPR well but aren't seeing enough improvement for your particular concern.
Retinol — One of the gentlest vitamin A options, retinol is stronger than retinyl esters and common in over-the-counter products. It has to undergo two conversion steps in the skin before becoming retinoic acid, so it is generally less potent and slower acting.
- Best for: general skin maintenance and retinoid benefits.
- Stay put if: you're seeing results and your skin is happy.
- Move up if: you've used it consistently for several months and want more noticeable results, particularly for acne or more established ageing concerns.
Retinyl esters— Retinyl esters, such as retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, and retinyl propionate, are the weakest and least directly active forms of vitamin A. They have to be converted first to retinol, then retinal, then retinoic acid, so there are several steps before reaching the active form.
- Best for: very sensitive skin, people completely new to vitamin A, or those who want a very gentle introduction.
- Stay put if: you're sensitive to stronger retinoids and your priority is maintaining skin quality rather than achieving significant changes.
- Move up if: you've tolerated them well but want more noticeable results. Retinol or retinal would be the logical next step.
Tretinoin does deserve its reputation. It's powerful, widely researched and capable of producing impressive results. But we do need to stop thinking that using the strongest active possible is some kind of pinnacle of achievement, as for some people this mindset can make their skin concerns markedly worse.
A person using retinal consistently and happily for years may see greater results than someone who starts tretinoin, develops severe irritation, abandons it, restarts it, and attempts to push through seriously compromised skin issues to build tolerance. Someone with acne may do better with adapalene. Someone concerned primarily with pigmentation may need a targeted pigment-focused treatment. Someone with reactive skin may need to prioritise barrier health before introducing any retinoid at all. And someone with significant acne or a complex skin condition may need a completely different treatment plan.
If In Doubt, Go Pro
If you are unsure what your skin needs, what treatments are best for your concerns, or are confused by often bewildering and misleading advice, seeking professional help is the best next step. Professional facialists and dermatologists are highly skilled in analysing skin and making the best recommendations for individuals, and their knowledge and expertise will far outweigh the conflicting messages we routinely receive online.
Please bear in mind that while a facialist can create a targeted treatment plan bespoke to your concerns, tretinoin is a drug and can only be prescribed by a medical professional/dermatologist.
If you would like expert advice from a Skin Rocks Pro partner, you can find your nearest expert here:
Or if you would like to explore the dermatology route you can either obtain a referral via your GP or choose a private specialist. Ensure your chosen specialist is a medically qualified doctor on the General Medical Council (GMC) Specialist Register for Dermatology.
Explore the Skin Rocks retinoids here:
Words by Nicky Connors - Team Skin Rocks
Qualifications - Beauty Industry Professional, 25 years | BA (Hons) English | Beauty Writer | Copy Editor | HND Specialist Makeup
