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What are peptides?
Peptides are short-chain amino acids which are naturally present in the body and skin. There are various types of peptides and each peptide can have multiple names and varying skin benefits.
In skincare, the use of peptides is somewhat limited (mainly due to difficulties with absorption and in formulating these ingredients into products), and so there are four main types of peptides used in topical skincare. These are typically used to reduce the appearance of fine lines and to hydrate the skin.
How do peptides work?
Peptides are essential for the synthesis of proteins such as collagen, elastin and keratin, and using peptides in skincare can help to trigger the production of these proteins. These protein molecules are naturally present in the skin and help keep the skin firm, plump and smooth. As we age, the natural levels of collagen, elastin and keratin in our skin deplete, which can lead to laxity, texture, fine lines and wrinkles.
So, why do we apply peptides to our skin rather than just applying these proteins directly? Well, some proteins, such as collagen, are too large to be absorbed by the skin. This means that applying them topically has little to no benefit. Applying peptides topically, however, triggers the production of said proteins and therefore mitigates the need for absorption.
What are the benefits of peptides in skincare?
Peptides have several benefits in skincare. By stimulating the production of collagen, elastin and keratin, peptides can help to plump and firm the skin, in turn reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Peptides can also help to strengthen the skin barrier through the production of these proteins, as well as improve the skin's texture to reveal smoother skin. Some peptides have also been shown to have skin-soothing properties, helping to reduce redness and irritation, whilst others have been shown to help with hyperpigmentation.
How are peptides used in skincare?
Peptides are usually found in serums, moisturisers and eye creams as polypeptide mixtures. Look at peptides as a support act in skincare - when they are combined with antioxidants and skin conditioners, these products can have significant 'anti-ageing' benefits.
Who needs peptides in their routine?
Anyone looking to achieve minimise the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and achieve smoother, plumper skin, can benefit from adding peptides into their routine.
If you are an experienced skincare user with deeper wrinkles, we would recommend using a retinoid product in conjunction with your peptide product. However, if you are only just starting to notice the first signs of fine lines, we would recommend focusing on hydration-boosting products and peptide-based skincare as your first port of call.
Products containing Peptides we recommend:
- LIQUID PEPTIDES™ by Medik8
- Peptides & Antioxidants Firming Daily Treatment by Allies of Skin
- Multi-Peptide + HA Serum by The Ordinary
- Peptide Glazing Fluid by Rhode
- Light Aura Vitamin C + Peptide Eye Cream by Summer Fridays
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Peptides & Omegas Firming Eye Cream by Allies of Skin
Words by Ceyda Faik-Yildirim MSci (Chemistry) - Team Skin Rocks
